In essence as we all know: North Korean officials like things to remain out of the public eye — public being international. After editing some photographs of past trips, I came across several pictures which, if you imagine hard enough, are some that I took in the country’s southern most city Kaesong. To reach Kaesong from South Korea means crossing a heavily guarded, time consuming, bureaucratically organised border, and back again in one day. All photographic images are checked by North Korean authorities on departure, the bland non-descript ones are always given the official seal of approval; naturally the gritty good ones get, deleted.

So, imagine if you can the southern mountains and pastures surrounding the city of Kaesong.

by Cate

by Cate

A glorious waterfall spouting volume upon volume of clear mountain water into a tranquil pool. When I was there the water had frozen.

by Cate

Access to the city’s streets, houses and buildings was virtually impossible.  Everything was either shut down, hidden or locked behind closed walls and a guarded gate.

Because of Kaesong’s location to South Korea, it had been up until December 2008, a popular day excursion for South Koreans and foreigners. Expensive but worth it in an odd way. If you want to know more about my trip check it out here: North Korea.

For more Friday photos and talk head on over to the bloggers session @ Delicious Baby.

Caffeinated Traveller

The local fare of a country is something I don’t usually blog about. I’m too busy eating it to be thinking about it. But this time I’d thought I would blog about it, because it’s North Korea.

A traditional style lunch was provided as part of the package. A lunch which consisted of 13 different  side dishes, and all the food groups:meat,vegetable, fruit, bread (grains), dairy. And one more, chili. 

by Cate

Marinated wild mushrooms with red chili, marinated fish with red chili, fresh soya bean shoots with red chili, a gelantinous concoction – red chili, steamed fern bracken and… red chili. And a yummy onion cabbage soup with heat to boot.

While the South Koreans complained about the food being bland and not enough heat, the non Koreans enjoyed the meal. There may have been an overdose of chili going on, but the vegetables were fresh and the food actually tasted organic. No additives - except for the generous handfuls of msg.

Unlike their southern comrades, the North Korean diet (Kaesong) seems to include coriander (cilantro). My guess is as a breath freshner????

by Cate

Presentation was part of the meal. Not up to Japanese standards, but given the circumstances, the cooks made a good attempt. I was intrigued with the way they prepared their egg dish.

by Cate

My first impression was a custard type dessert. It was not until I had vacuumed up the first portion did I realise there was no custard flavour to this dish. Egg and only egg.

Although I was busy enjoying the wonderfully prepared and efficiently ran lunch, I sensed an underlying pride from the young waitresses. Proud that they could produce something edible for these odd looking foreigners. Edible in the way that the odd looking foreigners were not choking on the heat or pulling faces of disgust at the indistinguishable food in front of them.

The lunch was a novel treat for most of us non Koreans – something new to try, photograph, and use as a topic of polite conversation afterwards.

 Sadly though, this type of meal is probably something the average North Korean only dreams about.

What did you think of this post on North Korea?

Caffeinated Traveller

North Korea may seem a barren infertile country on the surface, but hidden underneath away from the tourists and UNESCO eyes (I’m sure they are very aware of what’s there), the country has some great relics in need of protection. And recognition.

Kaesong’s heritage is rich, even if its economy seems poor to the capitalist eye. The city has over 500 years of history and some historic sites date back to the 13th century. The preservation of these sites is pretty good given the circumstance. Put it down to lack of pollution and low tourist numbers.

Fortunately North Korea has allowed some of its heritage to be viewed and photographed by visitors. These sites are probably the only attractions that North Korea doesn’t fall into a paranoic fit over.

Buddha, temples and shrines are all on the list. Even a museum. Sitting inside the Koroyo musuem is a large bronze statue of Buddha. Guarded over by the ever present ’eager eyes’ of the minders, you couldn’t touch him or get close to him. He had only a little natural light to sit in, just enough to take some shots with my little point and shoot. 

This Buddha is reputed to be 1000 years old ( quoted by an enthusiastic tour guide). My guess is he is about half that. Still very old and well maintained. This Buddha even survived the civil war. 

by Cate

 Surrounding the famous Koryo museum are relics and pagodas dating back over the centuries. It was late in the afternoon and the temperature was cold when I was there. But the time was good to wander the paths and take close-ups of some of North Koreas religious past.

by Cate

It is ironic really. North Korea seems willing to show visitors some of their heritage, heritage which has probably never been shown to the local people. Do you think the average North Korean has stepped into a museum that doesn’t contain propaganda? Or ever been able to look at Buddha or religious icons? That would be a no with both a capital N and O.

by Cate

Has North Korea better relics than South Korea?

Hard to say, but North Korea certainly has a good collection which really needs to come under the watchful eye of UNESCO. I know that towards Pyongyang there are famous tombs that have UNESCO protection, but thats about all.

One of the oldest sites lies within the city of Kaesong. It is a very old small stone bridge with a romantic history – Sunjukgyo.

by Cate

Sunjukgyo was a type of land bridge and dates back to the 13th century. Supposedly it has a bloodstain on one of the stone slabs, blood from one of the king’s loyal followers who was killed on the bridge. You can see a faint red stain but I’m sceptical whether the stain is original. Romantics keep the story alive and all South Koreans know about the story.

Would I go back to North Korea?

 That night, after arriving back to South Korea, I was certain I wouldn’t go back there until I was able to interact with the people. Sitting inside a bus being watched by minders and only being able to see ancient relics, was not my kind of trip.

But after thinking about it, I do want to go back to North Korea. To travel around for two or three weeks and take in the northern area would give me a rounded view of the country. Sure I will have a reliable trustworthy tour guide by my side like a loyal dog. Even the conversations will be rehearsed.

But – no matter what they say I can and cannot photograph, and who I can and cannot talk to, they can never take away my ability to observe, and document their life in my mind. That is my freedom.

I tried to research what sites fall under UNESCO in North Korea. The information is sparse. So if I’m incorrect please let me know.

Hope you enjoyed this post.

Caffeinated Traveller

I only have insight and words. Eights hours may sound a short time, but to someone who lives in freedom, it’s an oppressively long time.

Kaesong is North Korea’s southern most city, an ancient capital of the once unified Korea. A city full of historic relics; and crumbling buildings. Historically Kaesong was a city for learned scholars, religion and I guess wealth. In an odd way it probably still is compared with other places in North Korea. But to the outsider, it’s a city of worn out buildings, dirt laden paths, bicycles, and an eery quiet. Kaesong has to be the epitomy of a poverty stricken communist country.

The last time I experienced communism on this scale was Yugoslavia (a long time ago). When I went through Kaesong, the images of rural towns in Yugoslavia came flooding back. A patina of sadness, an era of dilapidation, all in the name of paranoic-communism.

Kaesong has potential

Surrounding the town there is beauty, peaceful, non-industrial, smogfree beauty. The small mountains and rocky outcrops are smothered in forest, which I could picture as being gloriously colourful in autumn, and lush in summer.

There are also waterfalls and mountain paths that have potential, that is, if the country opened up. Being on a strictly controlled (escorted) tour group from South Korea, I was taken to one of the region’s famous waterfalls -Bakyeon.

Bakyeon has sheer cliff faces, bleached white and worn smooth from water and weather. Arriving at the falls and walking around the trails was welcoming relief after the reality of Kaesong town.

Of course now that it’s winter the falls were only a trickle and partially frozen over. Not much to photograph. But still worth admiring from an ancient pagoda on top of a hill.

by Cate

Bakyeon Falls has history written all over it. From the fortress walls, pagodas and rock faces:

by Cate

 Communist Korean and ancient Chinese:

by Cate

Anything but normal

Travelling around the Kaesong area was anything but normal. There were seven tour buses, mostly full of elderly Koreans wanting to see their old country before they go. My group was a mix of Koreans and incredibly curious non-Koreans: Japanese, Canadians, Americans (yes!) and one Kiwi.

Escorting the buses were four black, shiny SUVs. Inside these SUVs were escorts aka secret little spys. Their job: to ensure we don’t harm ourselves. And to zealously watch over the non-Koreans wherever they went.

As the bus convoy drove through the countryside, the only other life outside were soldiers - standing to attention on the roads; and in the fields. Soldiers spaced 50 -100 metres apart. Soldiers looking on suspicously. But not all soldiers held an intense dislike for us. On the rarest occasion one or two gave us a cautious smile. One even gave us a warm grin. If only that shot could have been captured.

Where were the locals?

Outside of Kaesong town the fields and roads were devoid of humansThe tour was full of aging pensioners, some with limps and a lot with heart problems. Not a good formula for danger. 

Were the North Koreans a danger? From what I saw of them, they looked timid and in fear. Who was protecting whom?  Did we need protecting from ourselves?

Unable to shoot the reality

Unfortunately all shots I tried to sneak were deleted at passport control. The patient guard went through my entire collection (300 shots). All in the name of security!

I’ll be posting more on my short excursion to North Korea over the next week.

I hope you found this post interesting. Let me know your views.

(Bakyeon waterfall photo courtesy of  ‘go and see korea’)

Caffeinated Traveller